While I was quite pleased with the unique results, this left behind a mass of crusty crystalline precipitate on all the services I painted the chemical upon. The small paintbrush was also exclusively reserved for this undertaking, and I also previously applied some petroleum jelly to the threads to prevent any undesired corrosion in these areas. Mind you, this was done in a well-ventilated room while I was wearing rubber gloves, and the razor resided upon an old dinner plate with a cracked edge which was put out to the pasture some time back. I purchased some of this material from Amazon ( Editor’s note: affiliate link) and then began using my Beloved Overlander as a chemical “guinea pig”. There are other options but this is one of the go-to solutions for achieving this artistic effect: (II)_sulfate. However, in metal artistry this corrosion effect may be generated in other colors using different chemical reactions, and after some online research I discovered a rather pretty light blue/green patina might be brought about by applying copper(II) sulfate to brass (or bronze or copper). In brass this is usually evident as a darkening of the material, as you see below. Since copper and its alloys of bronze or brass are reactive in the presence of oxygen and/or moisture, a tarnish readily forms which we call “ patina“. Artistry In CorrosionĪs I observed the beginnings of patina spots building after concluding my first shave, thoughts of fun experimentation began to percolate in my mind. Since brass is very soft, the matte bead blast finish comes away in no time, and a final mirror-like shine readily presents itself, as is the above. Yes, it really is that good.Īs per my usual, I then set about doing a very light polish of the head cap and safety bar, along with some breaking of any nearby sharp edges. Personally I find lighter titanium handles and or razors reduce discomfort and razor burn, but the precision and design of the Overlander gave me the best of both worlds. I was slightly gobsmacked because I expected spots and irritation when finished, yet I was dealt none with this somewhat hefty shaving instrument. In spite of a fresh sharp blade, a longer 3.75 inch handle, and the razor weighing in at a cruiserweight 115g, I got an efficient, BBS shave with no discomfort. Speaking of, the first shave was quite sublime and almost perfect in execution. I briefly considered other options, but most other available materials are over double this price and personally I don’t care for the lightness of aluminum razors. And it arrives at your homestead in your choice of many different materials: bronze, copper, brass, stainless steel, or aluminum.īrass is the cheapest to acquire at ~$100 USD, so this was not a painful purchase. Sometime later the product arrived in the mailbox with a nice handwritten note from Chris, and then the shave experimentation began.Īs many others in our beloved wet shave community have similarly reported, the Overlander performs its job admirably, effortlessly fusing the neigh-impossible combination of efficiency and comfort. This time I decided to try something different, so I purchased an Overlander razor in brass, partially because this new material was a different foray for me, also because it was amongst the least expensive options available. Both resist corrosion quite well, they tend to be precisely machined, and they have good aesthetics. Ideally I gravitate towards razors in 316 stainless steel or titanium as my go-to favorite materials. I’ve heard many good things about this razor, and after reading some online reviews and hearing its praises sung, I decided to investigate for myself. On a lark I recently purchased one of the famed Overlander razors from Karve Shaving Co.
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